From Grand Lake to the Barron Canyon
This is a trip that has everything:
wonderful lakes, dazzling beaches, gorgeous waterfalls, fun rapids, a
magnificent canyon and great fishing. It’s easy enough for beginners, yet
tough enough to make each day a solid days work. I've done this trip four
times with four different groups of paddlers. The only negative point
about this trip is that it can be quite busy at times.
This trip begins at Grand Lake in the
Achray Campground in the north east section of the Park. Our trip would
end at Squirrel Rapids, where we left a second vehicle. After spending the
night at Achray Station, we traveled south to where the Barron River exits
the lake. We paddled east along the river until the first portage (30 m.)
around a dam to Stratton Lake. Stratton Lake is long and relatively
uninteresting. St. Andrews Lake is only a short 45 metre portage away and
is a much prettier place to set up camp.
After setting up camp on a rocky site on
the northwest shore, we went back to Stratton Lake to visit the “must see”
High Falls area. High Falls is a series of four falls and chutes
interspersed with deep pools complete with a natural water slide and whirl
pool. No wonder it’s a very busy place. Although this is a high falls is
gorgeous area, it can be a difficult area to photograph.
The day we portaged around High Falls on
the 660 metre trail found on the left shore of St Andrews Lake. Traveling
northeast we continued through High Falls Lake to the north end where the
Barron River exits through a narrow bay on the northwest shore. There is a
set of rapids here that can be run in part, but other sections need to be
walked or lined. The portage around the rapids is 530 metres on the
right-bank.
Down stream a little further there is another set of rapids called "The
Cascades". We chose to walk and line the rapids rather than take the 290
and 350-metre portages on the left shore. I think we would have been
better off using the portages as it took much longer than we expected.
This entire section of the river is 1.8 km. in length.
We continued paddling north 500 metres through the small lake to a set of
rapids. The portage (160 metres) is located on the right shore. Just after
Brigham Lake is a set of rapids. The portage is 100 metres on the left
shore. Another 100 metres of paddling brought us to the portage around
Brigham Chute. The portage is to be found on the left shore and is 440
meters long. We noticed other people put there canoes in just after the
falls and shorten the portage considerably.
The next part of the trip is the Barron
Canyon. I wish we would have slowed down more, as it is only a short 2 kilometre paddle to the end. The best plan would be to just stop paddling,
lie back and let your canoe slowly drift through this awe-inspiring
wonder. The walls on both banks of the river grow steeper as we drifted
and soon the wall was over 100 metres high.
After the canyon the river widens out across a marshy plain. Further
downstream is Cache Rapids, which is a definite mandatory 420 metre
portage. From here, the river is placid and calm as it meanders to
Squirrel Rapids. We camped just down from the rapids where we relaxed,
fished and paddled back to the canyon to enjoy it again. That evening, the
river was so calm that the water perfectly reflected the starry sky above.
The quiet night was also perfect for a wolf howl. Our howling received
responses from about a dozen wolves from all areas around us. Near our
campsite, we also discovered a tree with a fungus that glowed in the
night.
We spent a second night on the river, on
a different site further down then river. The next day we proceeds to the
Squirrel Rapid take out. Our troubles began when we arrived at the parking
lot; our second vehicle wouldn’t start. We decided that two of us would
hitch hike back to Achray Station to retrieve the other vehicle. To my
surprise, when we tried to wave down a vehicle driving by, the first three
vehicles wouldn’t even stop to at least talk to us. They all just drove
right by us. The fourth vehicle did stop to help us out. It was a park
warden going to Lake Travers to deal with a nuisance bear. He dropped us
off at Achray. By the time we returned to Squirrel Rapids, the vehicle was
fixed and running. All’s well that ends well.
Just an added point, The Barren Canyon is even more spectacular from the
top. Anyone visiting this area should make time to hike the 1.5 km Barren
Canyon Trail. Access to the trail is along the Achray Road about 30km from
the park entrance.
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